Archive * No. 049: A Castle in Chianti

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La Pesa di Sopra

Our next stop in Italy was Tuscany. Next newsletter I'll go through our itinerary and share wine tasting and travel stories, but this week I want to spotlight the property we stayed in.

We stayed at a crazy rental that my dad booked for the family, it was a 15th-century farmhouse restored into a luxury villa.

Collage of a Chianti castle villa surrounded by green hills, a pool with red lounge chairs and a stone farmhouse, Ebel Studio A Castle in Chianti
Collage of a Tuscan stone villa at sunset, a woman in white by a pool and a terracotta planter, A Castle in Chianti newsletter

Dating back to the 15th century, the bottom levels were originally a stable for horses and pigs, then later they added living quarters up above creating a second level, and then kept extending it over the following centuries.

This was not the kind of spot where you wanted to forget your phone downstairs, as it was hard to navigate in the dark or after a few glasses of wine. The house was extended piecemeal over the centuries, so the floor levels don’t line up and some staircases run off in several directions.

As confusing as it was, I sort of loved thinking about the way this structure came to be. Like nobody sat down and planned this house. Instead people continued to build upon and redesign it so it grew out of function.

Collage of the rustic stone interior of a Chianti castle with stairways, arched windows and exposed beams
Collage of an old stone wine cellar with large wooden casks and bottle racks at a Tuscan castle

The villa sits in the Chianti region, and had a crazy wine cellar stocked with some of the high-end wines of the area. The cellar is carved straight into the bedrock and is original to the house. Its the oldest part of the place, 500 years of people have kept wine down there.

Collage of a Tuscan cooking class with chefs in aprons around a long table, a wood-fired oven and fresh tulips

One night we had a cooking class at the house, run by a local chef named Nando. We learned some historic ways of making fresh pasta. Growing up Italian, I already know how to make homemade pasta, but I’d never used a chitarra (”guitar”). This was a traditional wooden frame strung with wire, where you press a sheet of dough through to cut it into strands.

Collage of hand-rolled fresh pasta being cut on a wooden board with nests of tagliatelle, Tuscan cooking class

On the second floor was the formal dining room, with the home’s original fireplace at the center of the living quarters. This room felt so fancy it was like a medieval castle or something out of a movie.

Rustic Tuscan dining room with a long wooden table, stone fireplace and beamed ceiling at a Chianti castle villa
Collage of an arched window view over Chianti hills at dusk, a cozy bedroom and a handwritten La Posa di Sopra card
Collage of a stone villa bedroom nook, a stone courtyard wall and an outdoor dining terrace with red chairs in Chianti
Aerial view of a private pool with red lounge chairs and an umbrella in a Tuscan garden at a Chianti villa

The gardens were as awesome as the house. Fresh herbs planted everywhere and the tall Italian cypress trees. Plus the pool was so sweet and looked out at the mountains.

Collage of a stone farmhouse, a swimmer in a Tuscan villa pool and cypress trees in Chianti
Painted ceramic dog plaque reading i Cani on a stone wall at a Chianti castle villa
Collage of a cypress-lined gate, a potted rosemary on a stone ledge and an ivy-covered stone building in Tuscany
Three red lounge chairs facing Tuscan olive groves and cypress trees under a blue sky at a Chianti villa

So that was the house! Worth its own newsletter. I left grateful and full of 15th-century design inspiration, and more convinced than ever that you can't replicate the human touch. The best things come from human creativity and the patina of time.

Notes to Self section banner, La Pesa di Sopra, Ebel Studio newsletter

Ciao !

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Archive * No. 050: Butchers and Brunello

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Archive * No. 048: Whimsy in Sicily